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marrone

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Masked Angel-Female/Male

Genicanthus Personatus
A deep water Angel that doesn't show up that often. Ones that do usually don't eat and die. Should be left in the Ocean.

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Apolemichthys Arcuatus-Masked Bandit
A deep water Angel that rarely shows up. That doesn't usually eat. Best to pass on this Angel.

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Apolemichthys Xanthurus-Buttercup Angel
A tough angel to get to start to eat, and most of the time, doesn’t make it. It’s probably a good angel to pass on.

Butterfly Fish
They ONLY eat Corals and nothing else. These fish SHOULDN'T BE kept as they'll most likely die unless you can feed them a diet of coral polyps. They should never be taken out of the ocean as they eat nothing but corals and chances of survival are almost zero. There isn’t a reason that any store should be selling any of these Butterfly fish.

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Chaetodon ornatissimus-Orante

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Chaetodon Meyeri-Meyers

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Chaetodon trifascialis-Chevron

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Chaetodon larvatus-larvatus

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Chaetodon austriacus-Exquisite

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Chaetodon baronessa-Triangle

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Chaetodon lunulatus-Redfin

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Chaetodon Melapterus-Arabian

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Chaetodon aureofasciatus-Goldenstriped

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Chaetodon bennetti-Bennett
 
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marrone

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Plectorhinchus Oriental -Oriental Sweetlips

A very tough fish to keep as most don't eat and usually die of starvation. Should be kept in a large FO or Fowlr tank with non aggressive fish. Full frown to about 3' but shows up in LFS at about 4"-6".

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Plectorhinchus lineatus- Orientalis Sweetlips
nappers/Grunts
This is a group of fish that get very large and are very aggressive. They’re usually consistently swimming around the tank looking for food, and will attack anything that they think they can eat. Even though they don’t bother corals, they’re better off in a FO or Fowlr and housed with very aggressive fish. The Rooster fish is one of the snappers that actually can be a problem, as it doesn’t always eat and is somewhat shy and slow moving. Because of this, it can be picked on by other aggressive fish and pushed to the corner of the tank to the point where it will die. You need to make sure that it’s eating and place it with tankmates that aren’t that aggressive.

This Sweetlips gets to about 2 1/2' and usually doesn't eat as a Juv.

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Plectorhinchus chaetodonoides-Clown Sweetlips
Sweetlips are a group of fish that get very large and needs good size tanks to be kept. Even though they’re large they need peaceful tank mates. They usually aren’t the best eaters, and most of time, need to be fed live food to get them starting to eat. Small sizes for sale at LFS are usually Juv., and when fully grown up, the adults look completely different and in most cases are less colorful. This is a group that really should be left to advance hobbyists or for public aquariums, as most of them die in a short time as they just can’t make the change over from being in the ocean to the home aquarium.

Note: The Clown Sweetlips are fish that show up quite often in LFS and really shouldn’t be purchased as most, if not all, die either from not eating on being stressed out.

Parrot Fish
Only eats coral, thus isn't a good fish for a reef tank. Actually all Parrot fish usually don't eat food and waste away. They shouldn't be kept.

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Hipposcarus Harid

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Calotomus-Parrot Fish

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Cetoscarus Bicolor

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Oxymonacanthus Longirostris-Spotte File Fish
This fish eat polyps and usually nothing else. It shouldn't be purchased as it has very little chance of surviving.

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Platax pinnatus-Pinnatus Batfish
Batfish aren’t reef safe as they will eat just about anything in the tank that they can get, which includes inverts and coral polyps. The small juv. that you see in stores, with the long fins, turns into very large fish, 2’+, and lose the long fins which attract most people to them in the first place. They need very large tanks and can’t be placed with fish that will attack their fins. They’re very hardy, except for the Pinnatus Batfish, which usually doesn’t eat and dies most of the time. Because of the size that this fish can attain, it really should be either left in the ocean or public aquariums.

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Pseduanthias Pascalus-Purple Queen Anthias
A very tough Anthias to keep, most just don't eat and die. A fish that should really be left in the Ocean.

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Pseduanthias Pleurot-Square Anthias

One of the larger Anthias available, it comes from deeper water and usually doesn't make it in the aquarium.
 
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marrone

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Dragonets

Dragonets are great reef fish, but they have special food requirements and unless you can supply them with live pods, most don’t make it. Some will start to eat brine shrimp or flake food, but most don’t and even those that do it’s usually not enough to keep them alive. They can be kept in tanks as small as 40gals with plenty of rock work and a good pods population. You can keep more than one in a tank but two males will fight. Males have an elongated first dorsal spine, whereas the female's is short and squarer looking. They have been breed in the aquarium with the male and female facing each other and then spiraling up towards the water surface. This usually happen late in the day or at night. Basically if you can’t supply them with a large population of live pods, you should think of not adding one to your reef tank.

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Synchiropus ocellatus-Scooter Blenny
Dragonets


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Synchiropus picturatus-Bullseye
Dragonets

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Synchiropus splendidus-Mandarin
Dragonets



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Zanclus Canescens-Moorish Idol
A very tough fish to keep and should only be tried by a very expert hobbyist and even then it's probably best if left in the ocean. Most come in very thin and even if they're eating don't make it.

If you looking to get one make sure the body looks fat and around the face and mouth looks in good shape, not wounds by the mouth that would cause it not to be able to eat. They need to be place in large tanks with very non-aggressive fish otherwise they can be bullied very easily. Best left in the ocean.

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Rhinomuraena quaesita Ribbon Eels
Most of them either die from not eating or escaping from the tank. Hard eels to get to eat. They will eat small ghost shrimp but mostly are reef safe. Juv start off as Black but turn to Blue as they become adults. A good fish to pass on. You also must have a good cover as they're escape artists and most will climb out of the tank and end up dead.

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Taenioconger Hassi-Garden Eel
These eels are reef safe but need a deep sand band of at least 1'-2' as they make holes in the sand where they live in. They will then reach out and catch passing food. Since most people can't supply this type of environment they should be left to experts who are willing to setup a specialty tank for them.
 
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marrone

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Chelmon Marginalis-Aust Copperband
Similar to the regular Copperband but a little more hardy, still can be a tough fish to keep. Is reef safe but may pick at corals and clams so you need to be careful. Should have peaceful tank mates.

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Chelmon rostratus-Copperband
Copperband Butterfly fish are basically used to controller Aiptasia anemones in a reef tank. It can be hit or miss, as some Copperbands will eat Aiptasia anemones and others not even touch them. They can be a tough fish to keep, as a lot of times they will not eat any food and just waste away. The Australian ones seem to do better, but still a lot more die than make it. People try feeding them mussels and clams on the shells but even then it can be hit or miss. I guess the real question is, is it worth trying to keep this fish just to control Aiptasia anemones or using some other means to control them.

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Chaetodon Ephippium-Saddleback
This is a very hard butterfly to keep and should only be kept by experts. Most come in very large and never adapt to eating prepared food. Needs to be kept with very peaceful tank mates

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Chaetodon Falcula-True Falcula
A very tough Buttefly to keep and should be handled by someone with a lot of experience. Most come in very large and don't eat right away. Once they do start to eat they seem to do fairly well but still aren't that easy to keep. Needs to be kept with very peaceful tank mates. A lot of people get them to eat by feed them mussels or clams on the half shell.

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Chaetodon Uliestensis-Falcula or Double Saddle
A very difficult butterfly to keep and should only be kept by someone with a lot of experience. Usually comes in large size and doesn't always eat. A lot of people get them to eat by feed them mussels or clams on the half shell.
 

marrone

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Macrioharyngodon Geoffroy-Potter Wrasse
A very hard to keep wrasse that last for a number of weeks and then usually dies. Most will drive into the sand and never come out or when they do they don't eat. Because they're need to hide in the sand you'll need to have sand in the tank, if you have any chance of them surviving. These fish should really not be kept except by an expert and with a well established reef tank.

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Anamses Wrasse

The Red tail wrasse it's a tough wrasse to get to eat and most just die from starvation. They will drive in the sand so a sand bed is needed. A good fish to pass on as it's very hard to keep.

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Halichoeres Iridis- Radiant or Iridis Wrasse
The Radiant or Iridis Wrasse comes from Africa and doesn't show up that often. It's a very tough fish to keep as it doesn't usually eat or it eats but eventually starves to death. Needs sand and it will drive into the sand also a tight cover and it will jump. Most seem to die and should only be handle by experts.

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Anampses Neoguinaicus-China Wrasse
A very beautiful wrasse that is very hard to keep. Most will not eat and spend a lot of their time in the sand, so a sand bed is needed. Need to be kept with non aggressive fish. Even though it's very temping to get this fish because of it's beauty it should really not be purchased as most if not all die.

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Macrioharyngodon Meleagris-Leopard Wrasse
A very hard to keep wrasse that last for a number of weeks and then usually dies. Most will drive into the sand and never come out or when they do they don't eat. Because they're need to hide in the sand you'll need to have sand in the tank, if you have any chance of them surviving. These fish should really not be kept except by an expert and with a well established reef tank.

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Halichoeres Hortulanu-Marble Wrasse
The Marble wrasse is a hard wrasse to keep. Most don't eat and will drive into the sand at any sign of danger. It's known to hide for weeks at a time and then all of a sudden appear. Because of its beauty most people buy it only to have it die on them. Should really be left to the experts only.

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Labroides Dimidiatus
Blue streak cleaner wrasse. Most don't eat or what they eat isn't good enough to keep them alive. Most die while some do start to eat but rarely last longer than 1 year. At night it will seal itself in a mucus cocoon.

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Exallias Brevis-Leopard Blenny
Not reef safe
as it will eat corals. Get to be a pretty large size, about 6".

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Acanthurus leucosternon-Powder Blue Tang

Powder Blue tangs are reef safe, but is a fish that doesn’t usually do well and there are a lot of deaths along the way. Most Powder Blue tangs arrive in bad shape and have a number of problems that should be looked at carefully before you purchase one. Things to look for: consistently moving back and forward of the eyes and consistent swimming in circles. Sometimes the fish will come out of this but most times they will not and will die eventually. Also look for signs of ich or marine velvet as Powder Blues are very prone to both. Also, Power Blue tangs can be very high strung and attack all the other fish in the tank, a lot of times this will lead to the Powder Blue being over stressed and eventually dying. Powder Blue tangs need good size tanks, at least 75gal, and plenty of space to move around it. Some get along with other tangs but for the most part Powder Blues are very aggressive and it’s best to keep them without any other tangs as adding others tangs is always a crapshot. Even if you get a good one, they usually don’t have long life spans, some living for only 3 – 5 years.

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Acanthurus Japonicus-White Cheek or Powder Brown Tang

These tangs are reef safe and usually do well with other tangs that aren’t similar in shape. They don’t get too large, even though some very large ones do come around from time to time, but they still need a good sized tank. They are prone to ich and don’t always come in in the best of conditions, so care needs to be taken when getting one as a lot of them do die because of either ich or from shipping.

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Acanthurus Achilles-Achilles Tang

An Achilles tang is a fish that is for the most part very tough to keep. They don’t usually ship very well, are very hyper and get stressed out very easily. They’re also very prone to getting ich and usually don’t do well with treatments of copper or for that matter in quarantine tanks. They do get pretty large and because they stress out so easy, they should only be placed in large tanks with plenty of hiding spaces and swimming room and a good amount of flow. This is a very beautiful fish but really should be left to someone with a very large tank and a lot of experience as most just don’t make it.

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Naso Vlamingi-Vlamingi Tang

This is a very large tang that reaches lengths of 2’+ and should really be only kept in very large tanks or public aquariums. Small Juv. can be obtained but they have nowhere near the colors or streamers of the larger adults. They don’t start to color up until they reach about 1’+ or more and anyone getting a small one, and thinking that there going to have an adult in time, will be greatly disappointed.

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Acanthurus Sohal-Sohal Tang
A tang that does well in a reef tank but gets very large and over time becomes very aggressive not only against other tangs but other fish. Small ones aren’t as aggressive but that does change over time. They also do very well in FO tanks with very aggressive fish like triggers, groupers and large angels. Before purchasing one of these you really need to think as they do become problematic over time and need large tanks.

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Paracanthurus Hepatus-Hippo Tang
Hippo tangs are really good tangs for a reef tank and usually don’t have any problems with any other fish, outside of other hippo tangs. There are very ich prone and need to be quarantined before placing them into your main tank. They do grow to a pretty large size, but most small ones will do well for some time in small tank, 55gal being about the smallest as anything smaller and they will outgrow it in a short time. When purchasing small Hippo tangs, try staying away from the very small sizes, usually around a nickel or so, as they have a very bad track record and most don’t make it. If you're going to get a small Hippo, try getting one that is at least the size of a quarter or even larger.
 
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marrone

The All Powerful OZ
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Pygmy Angels

A group of angels that doesn?t always eat and usually aren?t a good addition to a reef tank, as they have a high death rate.

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Centropyge tibicin-Tibicin Angel


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Centropyge Multifasciatus-Six Bar Angel

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Centropyge Vroliki-Vroliki Angel

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Centropyge Fisheri-Fisher Angel

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Centropyge Shepardi-Shepardi Angel

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Centropyge Multispins- Multispins Angel

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Centropyge Nox-Nox Angel
A very shy angel that is easily spooked. Also will spend a lot of time hiding. Because it?s so shy, it can be tough to get to eat. It helps if they?re given plenty of hiding spaces in the tank, and if they are the the only angel in the tank. Not really a good fish to keep.

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Pygoplites diacanthus-Regal Angel

It's an angel that is hard to get to eat and even when it start to eat, doesn?t always make it. They will eat zoo?s and may pick at soft corals so you need to take that into account when placing it in a reef tank. Very shy and needs to be given places to hide and also tank mates that aren?t that aggressive. Red Sea ones seem to do better, but it?s still a very hard fish to keep and most, even from the Red Sea, usually don?t make it.

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Apolemichthys Xanthopunctatus-GoldFlake Angel
Similar to the Flag fin angel but carries a much higher price tag. Usually very hard to get to start to eat, although small Juv. do better. Still a hard fish to keep. Size wise, it?s larger than most of the pygmy angels and does require a large tank.

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Apolemichthys
Trimaculatus-Flagfin Angel
A tough angel to get to start to eat though, smaller Juv. seems to do better. It?s probably a good angel to pass on.

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Chaetodontoplus Mesoleucus-Mesoleucus Angel
Angel that can be tough to get to eat and usually are best to pass on.
 
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