I have to get the correct lighting for my 56 Gallon High Column Tank to keep Anemones alive for my Clowns.What I have is pitiful one 24 Inch 20 Watt Bulb.I will have a new all Glass Top for my Tank next week and will get new lighting I have 150 Dollars to spend on Lighting can someone give me some good advice on what to Buy.I wont have any lighting that hangs above the Tank the Tank must stay closed to much Water Movement from Wet Dry and Filters, any Advice please and Thank You.
The correct lighting and Wattage to keep Anemones alive.
- Thread starter snapper1
- Start date
This is what i was told by a rep. from Drs. Foster and Smith.
good rule of thumb for Compact Fluorescent lighting would be 3-5 watts per gallon for low lighting, 4-6 for medium, and 5-8 for high. Metal Halide, HO and VHO lighting would need somewhat lower wattage for the same light.
I assume anemones are moderate/high light requirements.
I agree $150 isn't gonna cut it.
good rule of thumb for Compact Fluorescent lighting would be 3-5 watts per gallon for low lighting, 4-6 for medium, and 5-8 for high. Metal Halide, HO and VHO lighting would need somewhat lower wattage for the same light.
I assume anemones are moderate/high light requirements.
I agree $150 isn't gonna cut it.
It's difficult to determine how much light you need just based on how many gallons you have.. the determining factor IS how much light is in your tank at any given depth. For instance.. If I had a 20G tank that was 25 inches deep and obviously very narrow it would need the same light as say... a 50g tank with the same depth.
You're right about your anemone.. it will require a lot of light. I too have a 24 - 25 inch deep tank. Just for referance I have 550w of HQI and VHO lighting over my tank (given 550w is more than MOST ppl bother with given a 65g tank).
For your particular tank I would consider at least a 250w HQI pendant or fixture of some sort.
Just my opinion.
You're right about your anemone.. it will require a lot of light. I too have a 24 - 25 inch deep tank. Just for referance I have 550w of HQI and VHO lighting over my tank (given 550w is more than MOST ppl bother with given a 65g tank).
For your particular tank I would consider at least a 250w HQI pendant or fixture of some sort.
Just my opinion.
sounds like you need more of a deep water lighting.. 250W MH should do.
you can source everything from a local electrical contractor besides the MH Bulbs which are more likely to be found in speciality hydroponic stores.
i was going to go with 2 x 175W MH's but after a lil bit more research found out that with more depth need more wattage to penetrate deeper... so i had to re-think and going with 2 x 250W on top of a 90Gal
here's a quote from PFO's site:
A quick rule of thumb for wattage in relationship to depth of water:
water 0-18" use 175W, water 18-24" use 250W, water 24"+ use 400W
i personaly dont think with that extra 1 inch will do too mcuh difference.
also i would stick with a bulb in the 10-15K range and maybe 2 36W actinic T5's. that should do.
TIP
im from windsor, ontario
an magnetic balast made by Advance 250w MH balast can be sourced for $ 68.72Can. over here.
grab the yellow pages and search in the electrical suppliers in your area, since most of the stuff is used industrially and/or commercially.
is you want to save $$$ the way to go is DIY.
you can source everything from a local electrical contractor besides the MH Bulbs which are more likely to be found in speciality hydroponic stores.
i was going to go with 2 x 175W MH's but after a lil bit more research found out that with more depth need more wattage to penetrate deeper... so i had to re-think and going with 2 x 250W on top of a 90Gal
here's a quote from PFO's site:
A quick rule of thumb for wattage in relationship to depth of water:
water 0-18" use 175W, water 18-24" use 250W, water 24"+ use 400W
i personaly dont think with that extra 1 inch will do too mcuh difference.
also i would stick with a bulb in the 10-15K range and maybe 2 36W actinic T5's. that should do.
TIP
im from windsor, ontario
an magnetic balast made by Advance 250w MH balast can be sourced for $ 68.72Can. over here.
grab the yellow pages and search in the electrical suppliers in your area, since most of the stuff is used industrially and/or commercially.
is you want to save $$$ the way to go is DIY.
if you are handy, and know how to operate a saw without removing any fingers and read simple electrical diagrams you are fine.
just look at the verage MH fixture, which i personly think its overpriced.
and honestly today i got to compare a electronic vs a standard magnetic balast and couldnt tell a difference.
just look at the verage MH fixture, which i personly think its overpriced.
and honestly today i got to compare a electronic vs a standard magnetic balast and couldnt tell a difference.
What everyone else said as far as the lighting goes, but an additional thing to think about. Water quality, water quality, water quality! You need a very stable environment to keep the anemone happy. That means absolutely zero nitrites and nitrates (well, undetectable with the better test kits anyway). You mentioned wet/dry filter. If you're using one of those, I'm betting your nitrates are pretty hight. . .or they will be in time. Are you using a protein skimmer. . .live rock? If you've got those two things, I'd seriously think about ditching the wet/dry. Second issue I see. . .if you're planning on keeping a glass lid on the tank, do you have a plan for ensuring you're getting enough gas exchange between the air and water. Along with keeping in heat, covering a tank can interfere with the exchange of O2 and CO2 in the water, both of which can be problematic.
Anyway, I really don't want to rain on your parade, but anemones can be just about the toughest creatures to keep alive and healthy. I, unfortunately, did not listen to many of the people who warned me of the same, and I struggled with my anemone for almost a year before I finally got it relatively healthy once again.
Anyway, I really don't want to rain on your parade, but anemones can be just about the toughest creatures to keep alive and healthy. I, unfortunately, did not listen to many of the people who warned me of the same, and I struggled with my anemone for almost a year before I finally got it relatively healthy once again.
Thanks I have alot of live rock I would say at least fifty pounds the back of the Tank is open about Three inches.No nitrites the nitrates usally run about 40ppm.I change 10 Gallons every two weeks.I have bought on line a compact double 65 Watt with a actinic light on line.I hope that will work or I will buy a Halidel light.Why should I ditch my Wet Dry that makes no sense to me?.
I hate to tell you this, but that's not going to be anywhere near enough lighting, and those nitrates are way too high. Anemones are tough to keep happy! I really think you need to go with metal halide bulbs. HO T-5s with individual reflectors as an absolute minimum, but even if they're overdriven, if the anemone decides he likes the bottom of the tank, I doubt they'll have enough "punch" to keep the anemone alive. Do you already have the anemone? If not, I would highly discourage getting one with your current setup. I know you want one, but unless you have the cash to invest in better lighting and better filtration. By better filtration, I mean a good protein skimmer, no bio-balls and at least 50-60 lbs of live rock.
Oh, as for the wet/dry, nitrates are only converted to nitrogen gas in anoxic (very low oxygen) environments. This takes place in your live rock and in deep sand beds. Since the bio balls are well oxygenated, they convert ammonia to nitrate, but it stays in that form. That's one of the reasons your nitrates are high. The second reason is that the bio balls in your wet/dry collect detritus, which slowly breaks down, releasing ammonia that's then converted to nitrates by the bacteria in the bio balls. Again, high nitrates. You'll hear wet/dry filters referred to as "nitrate factories", and as I understand it, that's why, and that's why I knew without even having to ask that you had high nitrates.
habsfan":1lf3h5d3 said:
Actually i have a aqualight single strip (65w), and my condylactis anemone wich requires high lighting is actually thriving.
Its gotten a LOT bigger since i purchased it and now its taking over half of my nano (20g).
So i think its not necessary, and besides im getting a doublestrip soon (130w).
Halides are great for deep tanks or bigger tanks..
I should have said I have a 75 Gallon wet dry that has no bioballs with a built in protein skimmer.I have ordered on line a 130 Watt compact with two 65 watt bulbs with actinic lighting. I may buy a single 65 watt bulb for additional light For a total of 195 Watts.My tank easily has 50 pounds of live rock in it now I dont have bio balls.I belive this will be enough for a bubble tip anemone.Thanks for all the advice everyone Snapper1 out.
pvn228:
Lighting has a whole to to do with the shape and depth of the aquarium. Dr. Foster and Smith try to simplify things for first time buyers. In your case, you have a very shallow aquarium with a decent output bulb. His aquarium is twice as deep as yours. Due to exponential loss of light through water depth, he will need much higher output than you.
Lighting has a whole to to do with the shape and depth of the aquarium. Dr. Foster and Smith try to simplify things for first time buyers. In your case, you have a very shallow aquarium with a decent output bulb. His aquarium is twice as deep as yours. Due to exponential loss of light through water depth, he will need much higher output than you.
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