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greg 45

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Mike c you are correct / I was asking JBNY where he runs his tank at. The ocean is different in each location. If you do enough reading 250 to 350 is fine. I am not running my ozone on a controller . My GHL redox is so sketchy that you cannot trust it. We use number for all other parameter's .
 

JBNY

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id like to know also about your skimmer as i have heard that the ozone destroys acrylic. Have you have any issue with that when injecting it in to the skimmer.also, what would you say would be the best ozone equipment you would buy that would last, so many options with dual drying ect.

Acrylic is fine with Ozone, my skimmer is the same one I have been using for almost 10 years, I have had no issues at all with it. I use the Red Sea AquaZone 200mg ozone generator. I replaced it about 3 years ago with the same model, my last one lasted 7-8 years and I flooded it with salt water 3 or 4 times and it still worked for years before it died. So for me that was good enough. I run mine at about 50% and I do not use an air dryer. The air dryers need to be recharged pretty regularly even if the environment is not humid. I found if you just run the ozone generator a little harder then you don't really need the air dryer.

JBNY no one asked the key question where is your set point on your redox controller/ also a ozone user for many years through skimmer .

I don't use the ORP controller for my ozone generator. I have the apex set to turn it off the generator if the ORP ever hits 450. But I only run ozone from 12-8pm. Just ON/OFF. My ORP is around 360-380, as I wrote earlier I am not using it to raise my ORP just polish the water for clarity.
 

mshur

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brooklyn
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I am using ozone for about 6-7 years for the same reason as Joe. Only for water clarity. But its necessity for SPS tank . I just choose to use it. Many reefers have awesome tank without using O2.
I guess its just a personal preference .
Same as Joe i have it set on the timer of my Profilux . What i found with years of using it that i have to clean and calibrate my ORP probe like every 6 month to get a proper reading .
 
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bklynreef

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new york
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The big question for me now is if my orp reading is 470 basically without ozone what would it do at that point besides not turn on or am I missing something?
If my orp was low then my water clarity is bad or yellowy correct? So if its this then what am I gaining?
 

JBNY

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I'm going to say that your ORP is reading incorrectly, I think it is incredibly difficult to get your ORP that high without some means to boost it.

That said, ORP has nothing to do with how clear or the amount of yellowing that is in the water.
 

bklynreef

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new york
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Thats the reading im getting on a brand new apex unit.
I have 1000 gallons water volume and doing 10 gallon a day water changes besides running 4 200 micron filter socks and another 100 micron pad before the water hits my sump area. Mabe I should get an orp test kit to make sure cause if its reading correctly then I guess im doing something right.
 

MikeC

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bklynreef just a question and forgive me if you do, but on your new APEX do you have a ORP probe hooked up?
I only ask because I know my apex will give a ORP reading with out having a probe and that reading is wrong. Im really not sure why you can get a reading and have no probe but it does.
 

bklynreef

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My probe is in the water and never left it since it's been hooked up. I know, im baffled as well so I took a bucket if water this morning out to see the clarity of it if it was blue like new make up water it was to my surprise. I thought id see some yellow.
 

greg 45

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bayonne / nj
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bklynreef the hobby grade probes are usless and lose there setting rather fast. I have a GHL and they even state they are to be read over a period of time. This in my opinion is useless. so if a fish dies I wont know for a week. If you were to dose ozone the probe or control should read it asap . That's the idea of the probe and ozone. Also new batches of water are lower in orp. Please test your probe so you know you are correct. Also why does a probe after calibration drop in orp when put into the tank and not read for a few days here is my mystery question.
 

bklynreef

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new york
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update, i just shut my main pump off and fed my tank super heavily for 2 hours. the corals and fish went absolutely ballistic, never saw such a response from the corals since i never do this during lights on and never this heavily. It looked like London in there with all the fog. Reading was 479 before the food and 409 afterwards. i still need to buy a test kit to authenticate the actual reading but what i learned with this is, i have been starving my corals which is why my growth was super slow. I was just always worried aboute PO4 more than what im feeding so i guess the story goes, feed heavily and then rip that stuff out to keep the PO4 stable. Walking the tightrope of parameters.
 

bklynreef

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new york
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I see the problem with the reading im getting on my Neptune orp probe could be that a nearby ground probe in my sump or other probes, titanium heaters, stray voltage ect, near the orp probe could be throwing the reading off. Ill have to unplug certain things and see if this corrects the reading. In the meantime im looking in to the purchase of an Ozotech Generator and i may be going with an Avast Marine Mutiny III Ozone reactor. Here's to Crystal Clear Waters, less carbon use, lower NO3 and PO4.
 

AXsignaturecorals

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Hi
My name is ralph i am the owner of Aquatic X-cellence... i have been in the hobby and growing sps for more than 20 years... and i will day 8 years ive been running ozone in my reef tanks.... im currently using ozone at my shop on all my systems... in the fish system i use it to do the job of giving the oxygen needed for new arrivals wile doing the job of a UV.. for my reef system it helps in keeping water clarity tip top... reduces time between water changes
.
 

vio

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Manhattan
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I agree about UV for fish health and a side benefit is improved water clarity. Ozone just seems unecessary and potentially hazardous if not done right. GAC should be able to handle water clarity just fine. I just think keeping it as simple as possible is always the best route to take and the vast majority of drop dead gorgeous reefs I am aware of don't use ozone, so the benefit seems to be minimal at best.

I don't have it in front of me, but I'll take a look at the reef specs in Vargas' Reef book and see how many list ozone as part of their systems. I'm wagering very, very few.

Does that mean you can't/ shouldn't use it? Well, of course not. I'm just not sure why anyone would feel the need to.
+1, I start 60 mg , everything nice, then 75, then 100, then more, i lost the control, i end up whit massive algae bloom , i guess, i destroy all the immunity of my tank.
is just like everything, is good, but to much, is NO good, then problems.
 

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