Bubble-tip anemones success!!!!!!! (10-14 Years)
- Thread starter phishy4
- Start date
Ritteri&Bubbles I have been looking into getting a bubble-tip from Dr. Mac. I was just wondering if you could give me some of the water parameters for these creatures. My tank is a 90 gallon and I have a 175 MH and the salinity is currently 1.022. What is the salinity and light requirements and the temp requirements? Do you also know of any web sights talking about these creatures. I would love to attempt anenomes, but want to do the research first.
schroom, its a small world, my original anemone came from him! I have cousins who live down is Salsbury MD. Basically you have enough light, you want Salinity up around 1.025, and tank temp should hover around 78-82 degrees. I take it that you also have some form of actinic lighting to go with you MH?? His anemones are really hardy specimens so you should have great luck with them.
Since the original thread subject is about E. quads I'll post this; there is still something missing in the equation that we don't know or at least I haven't figured out.
I have an E quad that is over 10 yrs old and others as old as 8 yrs, while the 10 yr old and others split fairly regularly about twice a year and have never ventured from the same spots, the daughters tend to not fair as well. All my tanks are kept almost to the same specs and while most of the daughters fare well in the same tank some fail to thrive or if they're moved to other tanks they fail to thrive. I would say the daughters success rate is at about 75%.
My conclusion so far is that the stress of splitting on the daughters is causing these mortality rates.
Regards,
David Mohr
I have an E quad that is over 10 yrs old and others as old as 8 yrs, while the 10 yr old and others split fairly regularly about twice a year and have never ventured from the same spots, the daughters tend to not fair as well. All my tanks are kept almost to the same specs and while most of the daughters fare well in the same tank some fail to thrive or if they're moved to other tanks they fail to thrive. I would say the daughters success rate is at about 75%.
My conclusion so far is that the stress of splitting on the daughters is causing these mortality rates.
Regards,
David Mohr
Riteri thanks for the reply. I do have actinic lighting and I was also wondering when I get a BTA, if I will need to feed him and how often. Also will the anenome be okay with other inhibitants in the tank? such as shrimp, stars, and fish (yellow and regal tang, mandarine goby, pecular clowns 2) Thanks for the advice
Fishaholic, ok sorry bout that, but I just answered over 50 different emails from many various ppl. So much for the day off!
Anyway, concerning the LTA Anemone(Macrodactyla Doreensis). This anemone requires a DSB, with moderate to intense lighting, with fairly moderate current(but make sure your tank has different areas of the sand bed where the current varies). It needs your average salinity of about 1.025. I think it only hosts 3 or 4 different types of clownfish in the wild which are the Pink skunk, the clark clown, the maritian, and the saddleback also I believe, depending on what part of the Indo-Pacific the anemone is picked from. This anemone also splits by longitudinal fission. Generally it only gets to the size similar to that of the BTA. Basically both are very similiar in requirements except the substrate which is different. Again, salinity as with all anemones is very important in keeping them healthy.
Hope this is a good starting point for you, but if you have specific Q's ask em.
Anyway, concerning the LTA Anemone(Macrodactyla Doreensis). This anemone requires a DSB, with moderate to intense lighting, with fairly moderate current(but make sure your tank has different areas of the sand bed where the current varies). It needs your average salinity of about 1.025. I think it only hosts 3 or 4 different types of clownfish in the wild which are the Pink skunk, the clark clown, the maritian, and the saddleback also I believe, depending on what part of the Indo-Pacific the anemone is picked from. This anemone also splits by longitudinal fission. Generally it only gets to the size similar to that of the BTA. Basically both are very similiar in requirements except the substrate which is different. Again, salinity as with all anemones is very important in keeping them healthy.
Hope this is a good starting point for you, but if you have specific Q's ask em.
I would be careful of the Mandarin goby being in the tank with an anemone. Anemone's love their mandarins nice and fresh!
I generally feed my anemones 2-3 times a week with fresh or frozen(fresh)seafood. The perculas are better off with a Ritteri anemone and arent a natural symbiont to the LTA.THough they may "adopt" it, I would think about a natural pair of clowns if possible though. But thats just my own opinion.
David: I find that if the Daughter anemones seem to have a harder time to split or have a "sucess" rate of surviving, it may show a water parameter issue. I would solve this by a bit of carbon and a small water change after splits. Also temperature at this time seems a bit better if its lower than normal I have found.
[ July 29, 2001: Message edited by: Ritteri&Bubbles ]
David: I find that if the Daughter anemones seem to have a harder time to split or have a "sucess" rate of surviving, it may show a water parameter issue. I would solve this by a bit of carbon and a small water change after splits. Also temperature at this time seems a bit better if its lower than normal I have found.
[ July 29, 2001: Message edited by: Ritteri&Bubbles ]
Jay: That amount of lighting is more than plenty. Even though I myself am not a fan of VHO or PC lighting as the main source, a funny thing to tell, is that someone who I sold a clone anemone of mine to, uses VHO lighting(less than the MH in both PAR and total watts)and that anemone looks even better and healthier than mine! Both of our water parameters are near identical too including typical flow rate etc. So VHO lighting should be fine for some Anemones including the BTA and LTA.
Originally posted by Ritteri&Bubbles:
David: I find that if the Daughter anemones seem to have a harder time to split or have a "sucess" rate of surviving, it may show a water parameter issue. I would solve this by a bit of carbon and a small water change after splits. Also temperature at this time seems a bit better if its lower than normal I have found.
Ahh, but the water params are the same or almost identicle. So you're saying that by placing the daughters in cooler water the chances of survival are better ?
In the wild this certainly wouldn't happen, or are you saying the 75% mortatility rate be the same in the wild ( not including predation ) ?
Just out of curiosity and you opennend yourself up to this question, what are the success rates of your daughter anemones or anyone elses ?
Regards,
David Mohr
[ July 29, 2001: Message edited by: davidmohr ]
David: I find that if the Daughter anemones seem to have a harder time to split or have a "sucess" rate of surviving, it may show a water parameter issue. I would solve this by a bit of carbon and a small water change after splits. Also temperature at this time seems a bit better if its lower than normal I have found.
Ahh, but the water params are the same or almost identicle. So you're saying that by placing the daughters in cooler water the chances of survival are better ?
In the wild this certainly wouldn't happen, or are you saying the 75% mortatility rate be the same in the wild ( not including predation ) ?
Just out of curiosity and you opennend yourself up to this question, what are the success rates of your daughter anemones or anyone elses ?
Regards,
David Mohr
[ July 29, 2001: Message edited by: davidmohr ]
Dave: So far I have a 100% sucess rate, and I think Dr. Mac may be very close to that too if not at 100%. Let me clarify what I meant. My "breeding" anemones are in cooler water than my normal show tank, and after they split, it shows, my skimmer goes nuts and a lot of waste water is released by the anemones themselves, so regardless I always do a small water change and add a cup of carbon for a day or 2. I dont "drop" the temp periodically for them, I just keep the tank at a lower degree than my normal tank, which is on a seasonal timer to begin with. I found by accident that a lower temp seems to get them to split more(maybe a seasonal thing?)but this is something Im still experimenting on. My "daughter" anemones never seemed less healthy though.
Originally posted by Ritteri&Bubbles:
So far I have a 100% sucess rate, and I think Dr. Mac may be very close to that too if not at 100%. Let me clarify what I meant. My "breeding" anemones are in cooler water than my normal show tank, and after they split, it shows, my skimmer goes nuts and a lot of waste water is released by the anemones themselves, so regardless I always do a small water change and add a cup of carbon for a day or 2. I dont "drop" the temp periodically for them, I just keep the tank at a lower degree than my normal tank, which is on a seasonal timer to begin with. I found by accident that a lower temp seems to get them to split more(maybe a seasonal thing?)but this is something Im still experimenting on. My "daughter" anemones never seemed less healthy though.
Sounds good.
It's been my experience that E quads in captivity tend to split in Spring and Autumn and my beliefs and of others also under stress ( survival of the species ).
Would you say that maybe cooler temps would fall in line with seasonal changes ( though Spring wouldn't make sense ) or stress ?
Regards,
David Mohr
So far I have a 100% sucess rate, and I think Dr. Mac may be very close to that too if not at 100%. Let me clarify what I meant. My "breeding" anemones are in cooler water than my normal show tank, and after they split, it shows, my skimmer goes nuts and a lot of waste water is released by the anemones themselves, so regardless I always do a small water change and add a cup of carbon for a day or 2. I dont "drop" the temp periodically for them, I just keep the tank at a lower degree than my normal tank, which is on a seasonal timer to begin with. I found by accident that a lower temp seems to get them to split more(maybe a seasonal thing?)but this is something Im still experimenting on. My "daughter" anemones never seemed less healthy though.
Sounds good.
It's been my experience that E quads in captivity tend to split in Spring and Autumn and my beliefs and of others also under stress ( survival of the species ).
Would you say that maybe cooler temps would fall in line with seasonal changes ( though Spring wouldn't make sense ) or stress ?
Regards,
David Mohr
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