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NYPDFrogman

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Vernon, NJ
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PH low... in the morning 7.89-7.95
all my tank parameters are good
Orp is 359Mv
nitrate is undetectable (lamotte low range)
phosphate is undetectable(lamotte also photometer on the way-ordered)

all livestock seem fine once lights are on the PH rises as high as 8.1
it was 8.3-8.4
before I started using GFO in reactors( I know it tends to lower PH)
my alk is 9.3DKH and clacium is around 500
mg is 1450

I drip Kalk any other suggestions to get the PH higher
 

JLAudio

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Flushing
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I got this info from this link: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.php

It gives alot of information on Reactors causing this problem and how to approach fixing it here is a section from it

"Causes of Low pH Problems
As described above, low pH problems are those where the pH is below about 7.8. That is, where the daily pH low drops below 7.8 for any portion of the day. Of course, if the pH reaches a low value of pH 7.9, aquarists may still want to raise it, but the need is not so immediate. Several things can commonly result in low pH, and the solution to each of them is different. Finally, there's nothing to prevent a tank from having all of these problems simultaneously!
The first step in solving a low pH problem is to determine why it exists in the first place. Some possibilities include:
    1. A calcium carbonate/carbon dioxide reactor (CaCO[SIZE=-1]3[/SIZE]/CO[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE] reactor) is in use on the aquarium.
    2. The aquarium has low alkalinity.
    3. The aquarium has more CO[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE] in it than the surrounding air due to inadequate aeration. Don't be fooled into thinking that an aquarium must have adequate aeration because its water is very turbulent. Equilibrating carbon dioxide is MUCH harder than simply providing adequate oxygen. There would be NO change in the pH between day and night if equilibration of carbon dioxide were perfect. Since most aquaria have lower pH during the night, they also are demonstrating less than complete aeration.
    4. The aquarium has excess CO[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE] in it because the air in the home that it is being equilibrated with contains excess CO[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE].
    5. The aquarium is still cycling, and has excess acid being produced from the nitrogen cycle and degradation of organics to CO[SIZE=-1]2[/SIZE]."
 

NYPDFrogman

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Vernon, NJ
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tank is over is 4years old, no cycle
Ca reactor has been running 3.5 years with no problem effluent is 7.00 with a slow drip
alk is almost 10 DKH
yes I I have a fuge with light 24/7 and cheato

I'm wondering if this is a result of several l small water changes done with in the within the last month or so
 

reefman

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Forest Hills
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ph low as 7.9 isnt that bad. as long as thats the lowest point.as long as alk is at 10, it shouldnt go any lower. if u really wanna raise it try increasing kalk drip at nite. but i dont think its needed.
 

NYPDFrogman

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Frank,

Are the doors to the house closed? meaning, using AC most of the time? wonder if its a fresh air issue?

house
A/C is on humidex draws the cool A/C air into the basement

I got my Hanna meter today although I use RO.DI and my TDS says zero
I have .06 PPM coming out of my filter just ordered a new 150 GPD and another to double the capacity to 300 GPD

PH is at 8.03 now
 

NYPDFrogman

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Vernon, NJ
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9 fish sizes range from 3-6"
very strong water movement 2-6102 tunze controlled
and a 6080 that runs constant across the back of tank benind the rocks.
my skimmer cup is emptied daily and socks changed daily.
 

meschaefer

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Astoria
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A/C is on humidex draws the cool A/C air into the basement

I got my Hanna meter today although I use RO.DI and my TDS says zero
I have .06 PPM coming out of my filter just ordered a new 150 GPD and another to double the capacity to 300 GPD

PH is at 8.03 now


It is not unusual for there to be a Phosphate reading coming out of an RO/DI array. Apparently it is really hard for them to remove phosphates. I found (on two different units tested) that when the RO/DI first starts making water that the phosphate reading is around .05 and that it drops down to .03 after 15 minutes or so. Because of this, I make large quantities of RO/DI water and use it all before making more. If you make lots of smaller quantities, you end up with higher PO4 readings.


I also wouldn't be worried about your PH reading, as it doesn't seem that low to me. On my old tank, PH swung from 7.8 to 8.0 on a daily basis without any noticeable determent.
 
Last edited:

Killerdrgn

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Park Ridge, NJ
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You could try extending your skimmer airline to the outside, that way its drawing in "fresher" air. This is my next move...

You need to be careful about this method. There was a guy in Boston that did that and extended his skimmer airline out the basement window. Everything was doing fine until his neighbor decided to use some heavy pesticides on his lawn. Lets just say he now feels low PH is acceptable if it's temporary.
 

NYPDFrogman

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Vernon, NJ
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When is the last time you calibrated your pH probe? Regardless, I wouldn't be concerned with a low of 7.9 as long as your Alk. is stable.
new probes calibrated within last week
It is not unusual for there to be a Phosphate reading coming out of an RO/DI array. Apparently it is really hard for them to remove phosphates. I found (on two different units tested) that when the RO/DI first starts making water that the phosphate reading is around .05 and that it drops down to .03 after 15 minutes or so. Because of this, I make large quantities of RO/DI water and use it all before making more. If you make lots of smaller quantities, you end up with higher PO4 readings.


I also wouldn't be worried about your PH reading, as it doesn't seem that low to me. On my old tank, PH swung from 7.8 to 8.0 on a daily basis without any noticeable determent.

my R/O membrane is almost 2 years old. I ordered a new 150GPD and another 150GPD membrane and housing to double my output
 
Last edited:

meschaefer

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Astoria
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new probes calibrated within last week


my R/O membrane is almost 2 years old. I ordered a new 150GPD and another 150GPD membrane and housing to double my output

let us know when you replace the membrane. I'm interested what the P04 reading is with a brand new membrane as both membranes I tested where about a 1 year old.
 

NYPDFrogman

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Vernon, NJ
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let us know when you replace the membrane. I'm interested what the P04 reading is with a brand new membrane as both membranes I tested where about a 1 year old.
will do I tested my water (well water) and it was exactly the same
hopefully they will be here by weds

gonna get some distilled water and test some carbon and see
I have marine land black diamond ESV and kent pellets
I'll post results
 

jcoffman11

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Brooklyn
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I have a new tank, about 4 weeks old and the PH is low about 7.8 and the KH is very high 22. How can I raise the PH and lower KH. I have a few damsels and they are doing fine.
 

Bob 1000

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Staten Island
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i found the fix to low ph.... Aragocrete... Started using this again in my ro container.. A small piece about the size of your palm brings the ph up to 9.5.. When topping off tank it just keeps my system at 8.10... With the calcium reactor at almost all the way open.. But I haven't tried this on a small system.. The smallest was 185 twv.. Sorry but I didn't read the whole thread...
 

CyanoMagnet

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PH low... in the morning 7.89-7.95
all my tank parameters are good
Orp is 359Mv
nitrate is undetectable (lamotte low range)
phosphate is undetectable(lamotte also photometer on the way-ordered)

all livestock seem fine once lights are on the PH rises as high as 8.1
it was 8.3-8.4
before I started using GFO in reactors( I know it tends to lower PH)
my alk is 9.3DKH and clacium is around 500
mg is 1450

I drip Kalk any other suggestions to get the PH higher

NYPD. The cause is most likely that your takn is not degassing.

Your alk is fine.

So solution.

A skimmer.

And a open window.

Problem solved (after 3 days.).

You probably have had your windows shut and using airconditioner which will depress the oxygen levels containing the tank.

Been there.
 

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